August 2014: I was living my dream of many years – my ride to the Himalayas. It was late second week of the month, and as much as I hate to say it, my dream ride was nearing its end. After getting a final check of the bikes, we (me and the Nirvana family) left for Pangong Tso from Leh at around 4 p.m.
I was riding on my 150 cc Yamaha FZ, while others were on 500 cc bulls. My bike was already running too rich and having major pick up issues, thanks to riding in absolutely no roads to Zanskar. On the way to Pangong Tso comes Chang La pass, at an elevation of 17,688 feet. As expected, my bike gave up on the way and I had to turn back from just a few kilometers before Chang La top. On my way down, the bike broke down, and I had to park at Shakti (Serthi), about 45 – 50 kilometers before Leh. The next day, I got my bike to Leh in a tempo. Thanks to Rajiv Rai sir, Juma Malik himself re – jetted my carburetor and did the necessary air connections. In the mean time, others went to Pangong and came back.
Now I had to make the biggest decision: either to go alone to Pangong Tso, or leave Pangong Tso and ride back to Manali with my team. Riding in the Himalayas with a 150 cc bike is not a joke. One thing I knew, I didn’t have the option of not going to Pangong. So against everyone’s suggestion, I decided to ride solo, and next day morning left from the Leh FRL office at 8:53a.m.
My bike was doing perfectly fine, and in no time I realized that I have already crossed the spot which I had to return from the previous day. The part I was most scared of was the water crossings. I faced small water crossings on my way to Chang La, and by God’s grace, a bit of concentration, a bit of fear and lot of determination, I could safely cross them. A few 100 meters ahead of one such crossing, I saw that a biker on a 500 cc bike was stuck at the same spot and another biker was helping him with his bike. Extreme happiness is what I felt, and I said to myself and my bike, “Yeah baby, you did it!”
After talking to a few Maharashtrians who were surprised to see a “MH 12” bike at Chang La, and even more surprised to know that a girl was riding solo, I decided to move ahead. The view changed drastically after Chang La, and I took many small stops to click the beautiful scenery. The worst water crossings in the entire ride awaited me here, and thankfully I could cross them all safely. I reached I Pangong Tso by 2 p.m.
After having a bowl of Maggie, I clicked a few pictures here and there, and sat on the sands to capture into my eyes all that I could of the beautiful lake. As I sat there, I thought to myself, that there was still a slight chance that I could go back and still catch up with the other bikers en route Manali. Without giving it a second thought, I geared up and started my bike. It was 4:53 p.m.
It was already very cold and riding made the chills even more obvious. The first water crossing was hardly a few kilometers away. I reached there to find the water crossing had turn into a fiercely flowing river stream. A car was standing at the start of the crossing, and the driver was thinking if he could cross the water or no. Praying to the almighty for his blessings, I put the bike into the water. I was so sure that I would fall, but thank God, I crossed the stream safely. How I wish I had some camera installed such that it would capture my expressions. Fear converted to more fear converted to extreme happiness. I realized that I would get at least six more similar water crossings. Any sane person would sleep the night at Pangong and leave the next day, but with some stupid zeal in me, I decided to go ahead. It was already getting dark and cold, and water crossings were becoming stronger by the second. By God’s grace I crossed all the streams without a single fall. The next challenge was my bike climbing up to the mighty Chang La. What I went through one day back was fresh in my mind. There was lot of fear, as I knew that if I got stuck there won’t even be a single bird flying over my head, or some dog crossing the road, let alone other people to help me. Channeling all this fear into perseverance to reach Leh as soon as possible, I revved up my bike to whatever performance was left of it. I reached Chang La at 7p.m.
May be I was destined to return the same day. I was lucky enough to experience sunset at Chang La. It was essentially the best sunset ever. I took a few snaps and immediately left for Leh, as I had to reach as soon as possible. I never knew that day’s ride was possible for me, I rode so badly that somewhere on my way back some stuff below my bungee and more importantly my fuel lock fell off, and I didn’t even realize. Praying all through the way, I reached Leh and directly went to Juma sir’s workshop to thank him for doing such an awesome job on my bike. He was shocked to see me come back the same day. Then I informed Abbas sir (an acquaintance, he had helped me with the tempo) that I came back, getting more or less a similar reaction. Next, I rushed to our hotel room, and to my surprise, some of my friends were still there!
Mission accomplished. Neither did I miss Pangong Tso, nor did I miss meeting my bikers’ family.
So yes, I am a girl, I’m 23, and I went to Pangong Tso and came back to Leh on the same day, alone.
And if I can do it, others can do it too..! So go for it.
(My utmost thanks to the Almighty for helping me throughout, my parents for supporting my decision to ride alone, and my Nirvana family for the numerous riding lessons without which this ride wasn’t possible)